Questions & Answers: Telescopes, Mounts and Accessories

Comprehensive FAQ page of Teleskop-Spezialisten (Karl Kloß) – compiled from the shop’s real advisory correspondence. All recommendations are field-proven; prices are historical references (“as of MM/YYYY”) and can change at any time. For individual questions: phone, SMS, WhatsApp, Signal or Threema (+49 (0)89 68050200).

Table of Contents

1. Fundamentals & Beginner Advice
2. Telescope Types at a Glance
3. Mounts: AZ, EQ, GoTo & Payload
4. Eyepieces, Magnification & Barlow
5. Filters for Moon, Planets & Deep Sky
6. Solar Observing (incl. Safety)
7. Astro Cameras
8. Astrophotography: Guiding, Backfocus, Adapters & Software
9. Smart Scopes & EAA
10. Collimation & Care
11. Shop Service: Delivery, Warranty & Advice

1. Fundamentals & Beginner Advice

Q: Which telescope is the right one for beginners (Moon, planets, family)?

Short list of the proven beginner recommendations (always with the reason: aperture beats a wobbly tripod):

Almost always add this planetary upgrade: HR4 4 mm Planetary eyepiece (or HR3 3.2 mm for even higher magnification).

Q: Dobsonian or refractor to start with?

Both paths have “their appeal”: The Dobsonian is noticeably easier to operate (two parts: tube and rocker box), more portable and gives the most aperture for the money. The refractor is sharper and more colour-free, but with less aperture. For Moon + planets + first deep-sky objects we recommend the Dobsonian route; those who want terrestrial use and maximum sharpness choose the small refractor.

Q: How much aperture do I need?

For deep sky we recommend from about 120 mm aperture for resolution and light gathering. For Moon and planet details, sharpness, contrast and high magnification matter instead – compact systems like a SkyMax 127 handle that. A beginner’s rule of thumb: cheap tripod telescopes are “either quite wobbly/unstable or have too little aperture”.

Q: Is a compact set with mount worth it, or a Dobson?

Be careful with cheap combo instruments: a long tube on an undersized EQ/AZ mount wobbles happily for 5–8 seconds every time you focus or swap an eyepiece. Better to choose the shorter/more compact system or a Dobson – Dobsonians are noticeably more stable because the rocker box itself is the “mount”.

Q: Can I do photography with a Dobson?

A Dobson “is already sufficient for successful long-term visual observing”. Astrophotography is only possible via an EQ platform (from about €500, stable up to ~30 kg; more stable platforms cost over €1,000) or with a smartphone. The Moon, Jupiter and Saturn can be photographed well with a smartphone at the eyepiece – Dobsonian imagers do exist, but it is quite laborious.

Q: What does an 80 mm ED refractor really show?

Realistic expectations (experience report): deep sky resolved at the edge – M42 well visible, M13 only “cotton balls”, M57 a fine ring, M31 clearly visible as a galaxy, M81/M82 fit together in a 25 mm eyepiece. Planets detailed up to about 140–160x. As a second instrument next to a Newtonian it makes a lot of sense.

2. Telescope Types at a Glance

Q: Newtonian/Dobsonian – for whom?

The good news: SkyWatcher, GSO and Explore Dobsonians have the best mirrors in this price range – with a preference for the SkyWatchers, because they have the more stable tubes and rocker boxes. The SkyLiner 200P is “the Passat among telescopes”: the best value for the money, but not upgradeable for astrophotography.

Recommended lines: - Heritage 130P/150P (FlexTube tabletop): “The 130P has the better mirrors [than the 150P]. Both are perfectly good though.” - SkyLiner 150P/200P/250PX/300P (classic Dobsonians); the 10” Dobson is the best compromise between 8” and 12”. - GoTo Dobsonians (Skyliner Flextube SynScan WiFi): usable manually – built-in encoders make it possible, the axes are just a bit stiffer. - Imaging Newtonians: Explorer 130PDS/150PDS/200PDS/300PDS and Quattro 150P (f/4) – plus the Baader MPCC III coma corrector (“necessary” for deep-sky imaging). The 150PDS is easier to collimate, the Quattro is faster, but “can lead to despair” (collimation!). f/4 Newtonians tend to need collimation quite often.

Q: Refractor – achromatic, ED or apo?

• Achromat (e.g. Startravel): wide-field and impressive, but with chromatic aberration (blue fringe). Note: the Startravel 80 is not currently recommended (plastic lens cell, cannot be adjusted) – better the Startravel 102.
• ED doublet (Evostar 80ED/100ED, EDX series): colour-free enough for visual and entry-level imaging.
• Triplet apo (Esprit, Askar FRA/PHQ, TS-Photoline): the imaging reference. “The Esprit apo is always worth recommending.”
• Size limit: “Purely technically, apos above 120 mm are not recommended. The 120APO would be the largest apo that still makes sense.” Larger systems react sensitively to temperature changes.

Askar vs. Esprit: “The Esprits are slightly sharper and more contrasty (measurably slightly better), but the Askar 103APO is more versatile because there are three correctors.” Karl recommends the 103APO based on lots of positive feedback from amateurs with high-end apos.

Q: Maksutov (SkyMax) – for whom?

The planetary/lunar specialist and travel telescope: highly portable, very good for the Moon, planets and bright deep-sky objects, also suited to terrestrial viewing. “Purely technically I would put the 127 mm Maksutov ahead of the apos” (at equal size: aperture, light gathering and resolution speak for the MAK).

An honest assessment of the SkyMax 180: - Very long cool-down; when the temperature changes overnight, the optics can’t keep up. - Mirror shift is pronounced (can be eliminated with an external focuser). - Very long focal length, small field of view – perfect for Moon and planets.

Q: Schmidt-Cassegrain (SC/NexStar/C8) or Ritchey-Chrétien (RC)?

• C8/C9.25/C11 (SC): universal, compact, handy. “A C925 is noticeably handier than a C11. But even a C8 is still quite handy and would already show plenty of detail.” The difference between C9.25 and C8 is more sharpness and contrast. For astrophotography an equatorial EQ6-class mount is an advantage; visually the CPC class.
• RC: “one of the best imaging telescopes with a slightly longer focal length … sharper and more contrasty than an SC” – but collimation is not trivial. Karl: “The RC6 is generally worth recommending. Only the collimation is important.” The shop collimates RCs very precisely before shipping.
• Newtonian vs. SC: “An 8” SC is a good all-rounder, but an 8” Newtonian on an EQ6-class mount would be astronomically more correct. Add a coma corrector and later a ‘normal’ C8 for small objects.”

Q: Seestar & Co. (smart scopes) – a real alternative?

Yes – especially for beginners, children and public outreach: the ZWO Seestar S50/S30 works even under light pollution (live stacking), is app-controlled and is “enormously practical” for clubs (image via USB-HDMI onto a projector). Weakness: planets – “the Seestar isn’t quite as good on planets”; a SkyMax 127 on AZ-GTI complements it perfectly (longer focal length). The Celestron Origin (RASA 6”) is the high-end variant, but a closed unit with a high price.

3. Mounts: AZ, EQ, GoTo & Payload

Q: Alt-azimuth or equatorial?

Karl’s decision rule: - Visual, Moon/planets, mobile → alt-azimuth (AZ Pronto, AZ5, SkyTee-2, Virtuoso, AZ-GTI) - Astrophotography / tracking → equatorial (EQ5/HEQ5/EQ6-R, Wave, Star Adventurer GTi for light loads) - Question for self-assessment: “Do you want a manual or automatic mount?” – manual: TS AZ5 SkyTee-2 (dual mount); with GoTo: Fusion 120i or Wave 100i.

Important: “GoTo always includes automatic tracking at the correct rate.” And at long focal lengths (small field of view) a mount without GoTo is impractical.

Q: Which mount can carry my telescope? (payload matching)

The essential ground rule: optics and mount must match. Verified practice pairings:

Practical rule of thumb (customer math): use only about 2/3 of the rated payload.

Q: Why not just buy the bigger mount?

You can – Karl regularly recommends going one class up (e.g. suggesting the HEQ5 to EQ-5 prospects by phone). But: bigger mount = more weight, more cost, more setup effort. And the opposite cases are expensive: unstable combos are, per the shop, “often returned because too wobbly”.

Q: Tripods – the underestimated stability factor

AZ-GTI, AZ5 and Pronto on the thin original tripod wobble → a strong steel/photo tripod with 3/8” thread is recommended. For the AZ-EQ6-GT there is the concrete pier adapter from JD Astronomie (“fits perfectly”). For strain-wave mounts: the SkyWatcher carbon tripod or EQ6/EQ5 steel tripods with the matching adapter. And: “it’s best to observe seated” – standing transfers every tremor into the eyepiece.

Q: GoTo – is it worth it?

At long focal lengths yes (“the C8 has a small field of view, manual tracking is stressful”). It can also be retrofitted: SynScan GoTo upgrade kits for EQ3/EQ5, belt conversions for the HEQ5 (Rowan kit). Control: alt-az via Wi-Fi, equatorial via EQDir cable; the hand controller port works via USB too, “an EQDir cable is better”. In a pinch, a standard network patch cable works for the handbox.

Q: Which mount classes are there?

• Entry level: EQ3 Pro SynScan GoTo, EQ-AL55i Pro (EQ5 class with built-in motors + Wi-Fi/app) – carries at most a 150PDS 6”.
• Mid class: HEQ5 Pro (up to 14 kg, belt-upgradable for imaging; the C8 is no problem) and the EQ6-R Pro (16 kg head load, “is the standard in the astro scene”, “worth recommending for its accuracy”).
• Strain wave/harmonic drive: SkyWatcher Wave 100i (HEQ5 class) and Wave 150i (“more stable, cheaper and just as accurate as the AM5N”); ZWO AM3N (HEQ5 class with noticeably better accuracy) and AM5N (EQ6 class).
• Large class: EQ8-R (only available as “R”/“RH” with pier tripod), CQ350 Pro.
• Hybrid: AZ-EQ6 GT (usable alt-azimuth AND equatorial).
• Travel/lightweight: Star Adventurer 2i / GTi (imaging mounts; 3 kg/320 mm focal length is “borderline” on the GTi), EQM-35 Pro (“rather not recommended – for the future rather HEQ5, AVX or AM3/100i”).

Karl’s honest assessment of the EQ6-R: “The mount isn’t perfect, but it does what it should. The belt pulleys always run slightly out of round, there is always slight backlash – but the belt drive compensates that well.” The shop checks every mount, sets the bearing play and puts a bit of extra weight on both axes.

Q: Firmware updates – yes or no?

Karl’s principle: “We recommend not installing new firmware … Never change a running system.” If an update already causes problems: switch back to the version the device shipped with or wait for a corrected version. (Exception: when the manufacturer delivers a specific update for a reported fault.)

4. Eyepieces, Magnification & Barlow

Q: Which eyepiece should I start with – zoom or fixed focal length?

Zoom first. With a zoom eyepiece 8–24 mm you find the optimal magnification simply by twisting – no eyepiece swaps in the dark. Proven models:

• Seben Zoom 8–24 mm (budget): On a 250 mm Dobson, 50–150x. Customer experience report: a “quantum leap” over the bundled eyepieces; comfortable for glasses wearers (glasses can stay on). Technically and optically “comparable to the zooms of this design from Celestron and SkyWatcher”.
• Baader Hyperion Zoom Mark IV 8–24 mm (upgrade): With the 2.25x Barlow combo it covers “3.5 mm to 24 mm in good quality” – fixed focal lengths are then not needed on top.

Q: Which magnification makes sense?

Rule of thumb: about twice the aperture in mm as the useful maximum magnification (e.g. 130 mm → ~260x limit). Karl: “You can certainly over-magnify because of the high optical quality” – but seeing sets the real limit. Important: achieve maximum magnification with a short eyepiece rather than with Barlow + eyepiece.

Q: Do I need a Barlow lens?

• On small Dobsonians (Heritage 130P/150P): no Barlow – better a short HR planetary eyepiece (HR4 4 mm on the 130P, HR3 on the 150P).
• Proven Barlows: TS 2.5x apochromatic (“full colour correction”) or the Deluxe 2x achromatic with T2 thread – thanks to T2 it can also take a DSLR.
• Caution when imaging on Newtonians: Barlow + camera needs significantly more focus travel (the “working distance trap”).

Q: Specific eyepiece recommendations by situation

Q: 1.25” or 2”?

Beginner scopes work with 1.25” – perfectly sufficient. 2” eyepieces (only worthwhile from wide-angle/overview eyepieces up) need a 2” focuser and are heavy; on a compact Dobson focuser they can be too heavy. Conversion help: the “funnel” on the Baader star diagonal is an adapter that lets 1.25” eyepieces sit in the 2” clamp.

5. Filters for Moon, Planets & Deep Sky

Q: Which filters does a beginner really need?

“Apart from the variable moon filter/polarising filter in 1.25”, you tend to need nothing at first.” The variable polariser (€30 class) is Karl’s standard for Moon and planets: it tames the Moon’s extreme brightness and boosts contrast.

Q: What do light-pollution/nebula filters (UHC, OIII, H-beta) do?

A light-pollution filter increases nebula contrast – “but exaggerated expectations lead to disappointment”. UHC works better than pure light-pollution filters at larger apertures. Recommended brands: Optolong or Askar. For deep sky under light pollution: “very good [possible] with the filters mentioned. Sometimes even under moonlight.” Colour filters, on the other hand, “make more sense on a refractor and would show only very little extra detail”.

Q: What’s the story with halos in duo-band filters?

The well-known halo problem (rings of light around bright stars) with Optolong L-eNhance & Co. is a manufacturing/coating issue of the filter, not an optics fault – it occurs even at f/7 apos. There is no optical workaround, only post-processing. Askar DNB filters have the halos largely under control. Extreme spike artefacts at fast optics (f/2): first check whether a hair/lint is sitting on the filter!

Q: Why does my duo-band stack turn red?

An explained phenomenon (Askar Colour Magic D2, OIII+SII): SII lies in the red spectrum just like H-alpha – both lines address the red pixels of the Bayer matrix, while OIII (+ H-beta) addresses the blue/green ones. Separation happens via the filter passbands. The combination of two difference filters is even deliberately usable for Hubble-palette false colour.

Q: Which filter do colour astro cameras need?

UV/IR-cut filtering (e.g. Baader UV/IR-Cut L 2”, CMOS-optimised) – without it, blurry IR frames end up in the stack. Karl likes to add an IR-cut free of charge with camera purchases (stackable onto existing filters).

6. Solar Observing (incl. Safety)

⚠ Q: How do I observe the sun safely?

Always only with a certified objective solar filter IN FRONT of the optics:

1. Baader ASTF AstroSolar filter in an aluminium frame – chosen to match the tube aperture (80/100/120/140/180/200 mm).
2. AstroSolar filter film A4 (visual) for DIY – cheaper, but the construction must hold securely and “no reflection of the sun may reach the primary mirror”.
3. For spotting scopes/camera lenses: ASSF spotting scope filter as an slip-on filter (Karl asks for the lens aperture measured with calipers to pick the right size).

Life-critical rules: - The photographic AstroSolar film is NOT eye-safe! (There has already been a mix-up case at the shop – the customer had accidentally used the photographic film on the telescope.) - On open Flextube Dobsonians an objective filter is unsuitable (stray light reaches the optics) – Karl knows no safe solution for that. - Take breaks: “As a rule you should never observe the sun in one long stretch. Take a few minutes’ breaks again and again.” - Solar finding with GoTo: set the mount up east of the sun – “the mount reliably finds the sun.”

Q: White light or H-alpha?

• White light (film/ASTF): sunspots, tentative granulation – the affordable entry. Karl is sceptical about extensive white-light observing, “but if you observe the sun in white light only rarely and briefly, there should be no harm to your eyes.”
• H-alpha (Acuter Elite Phoenix 40, Lunt, PST): prominences and filaments live. Customer experience with the Acuter 40: “far better than the PST”, contrasty, even illumination, no sweet spot. The shop checks and adjusts every H-alpha telescope before delivery and includes a second filter free of charge. On the IR-filter topic (Heliostar): the importer checks all devices for the German market – “Every telescope is tested on the sun.”

7. Astro Cameras

Q: Which camera for which purpose?

Karl’s rule of thumb: planetary/lunar cameras start at about €300, deep sky / live stacking at about €600.

Q: ZWO or ToupTek?

“The ZWO and ToupTek are technically identical. Only the ZWO cameras work on an ASIAIR.” ToupTek (and the identical Omegon/TS variants) are noticeably cheaper – but ASIAIR-incompatible; ToupTek runs with N.I.N.A., APT, SharpCap, FireCapture. Karl’s money-saving logic: “If you’re not using the ASIAIR, the ToupTek camera is the more interesting option. Or switch to the StellaVita from ToupTek – and it’s still cheaper.”

Q: Mono or colour?

Mono delivers more signal and flexibility with narrowband, but needs a filter wheel + filter sets (you must add that to the bill!). Karl’s note: “A colour camera remains very well suited in the future, too.” On filter sizes for mono: 1.25” filters would “vignette noticeably” – 31 mm just in the corners, 36 mm for full frame.

Q: My smartphone as a camera?

Honest limits: with a smartphone adapter (DKA5 ~€22 or Celestron NexYZ) you can only capture the Moon, Jupiter, Saturn and maybe the Orion Nebula. “But you shouldn’t expect too much from it.” Afocal through the eyepiece is the easiest way; for more you need a planetary camera + Barlow.

Q: Cooling and sensor heating?

Cooled cameras bring less noise and more contrast/sharpness compared to DSLRs. Caution on the sun: small uncooled sensors are better there; with cooled cameras activate the sensor heating 30 minutes BEFORE the cooling (otherwise ice forms on the window).

8. Astrophotography: Guiding, Backfocus, Adapters & Software

Q: What does the typical photo beginner stack look like?

Karl’s building blocks in the right order:

1. Mount before optics – tracking is the bottleneck: EQ5/HEQ5/ EQ6-R or strain wave depending on tube weight.
2. Optics + corrector: Newtonian → Baader MPCC Mark III; apo → the manufacturer’s flattener/reducer (0.8x “sensible to start with”).
3. Camera: ASI585MC (entry) / ASI2600MC (full frame) or the ToupTek equivalent.
4. Guiding (optional): guidescope + ASI120MM Mini or OAG – “from €300”; GoTo mounts already track automatically, guiding extends exposure times.
5. Power: Bresser 13 Ah battery or a mains supply ≥5 A (near a socket the shop likes to add a 10 A supply free of charge).
6. Software: NINA (“always worth recommending”) or ASIAIR (ZWO only).

One verified complete example: HEQ5 + 125 mm FPL53 apo with corrector + power bank + 2” star diagonal + zoom eyepiece + variable polarising filter.

Q: Guidescope or off-axis guider (OAG)?

“Both techniques, OAG and guidescope, work permanently. Both have pros and cons. But the ZWO OAG and ASI120MM work on almost all telescopes.” Karl is “a bit not such an OAG fan when you have no big problems with a guidescope”. The OAG pays off mainly at long focal lengths/weight-critical setups; the ToupTek OAG L has a bigger prism than the small ZWO OAG. A guiding camera does NOT need the 55 mm spacing – just enough to reach focus. Against seeing, “chasing” it doesn’t help: 1 s exposure on the guider.

Q: What is the 55 mm backfocus rule?

Central for imaging trains: the working distance corrector/ flattener → sensor must be right (classically 55 mm; some correctors want 57.5 or 91 mm – always check the manufacturer’s specs!). Example train, Askar 103APO without reducer: T2 12.5 mm + T2 5 mm + 16.5 mm adapter + 21 mm adapter = 55 mm.

Practical rules: - With a filter in the light path, plan the spacing plus about 1/3 of the filter thickness (rule of thumb ~1 mm). - Start with Canon on T2 (easy spacing finding); T2 vignetting is “not a big deal, since you usually crop 10 %”. - Fine-tune small deviations with M48 spacer rings (0.2/0.3/1 mm). - At fast optics (f/4 and faster), errors show up at just 0.1–0.2 mm deviation.

Q: Camera adapters by camera system

Q: NINA or ASIAIR?

“N.I.N.A. is always worth recommending” – free, needs a Windows PC. ASIAIR is the app solution for ZWO cameras (controls “any SkyWatcher mount with a guiding port or USB”). Karl’s market observation: “Notably, many amateurs switch from the ASIAIR back to NINA.” ToupTek cameras do NOT run on the ASIAIR.

Q: Automatic focuser (EAF)?

“An auto focuser isn’t strictly necessary, but it helps with focusing.” The ZWO EAF fits, for example, directly onto the 150PDS; for EdgeHD/SC there are adapters so focus runs via the external focuser instead of the primary mirror (eliminates mirror shift). ToupTek’s AAF is identical in design – but not a fit for every focuser (clarify in advance!).

Q: Power supply – the underestimated building block

“A stable power supply. Either a battery like the Bresser 13 Ah or a mains supply with at least 5 A.” Many mysterious mount and camera faults are 99 % power supply (cables, PSU, voltage sag). For flying: LiFePO4 power stations; note capacity limits and the UN 38.3 test report.

Q: Typical artefacts and what they mean

• Star trails despite guiding: first check USB cable/connection, then polar alignment, then the mount.
• Star spikes/halos always in the same direction: test without filters and without the filter wheel; rotate the camera on the rotator – does the error rotate with it = optics/adapters, does it stay = camera/tilter. “From f/5 you simply see EVERY imaging flaw.”
• Stripe bands at the edges of flats: “totally normal” – not a camera defect.
• Pale, bloaty stars at long focal lengths (EdgeHD 800 on HEQ5): “Every little breeze shows up as vibration” – mount/focal length mismatched.
• Photographing the Milky Way: “In this case a short-focal-length camera lens is better suited” – no telescope needed.
• And honestly: “It’s a lengthy process. I can only help initially. The rest becomes experience.”

9. Smart Scopes & EAA

Q: Seestar S50 or S30 – what’s the difference?

The S50 (50 mm apo) is the standard device (~€649 class), the S30 smaller/cheaper. Both live-stack even under light pollution, control via app, have an EQ mode (usable on Star-Adventurer-class mounts with a wedge). Caution with the S30 on the SkyWatcher wedge: the S30 “sits very low – the housing can scrape”. Planets are the weak point of both; a SkyMax 127 on AZ-GTI or a NexStar complements them. For clubs and schools: USB-to-HDMI onto the projector – public streaming included.

Q: What is EAA/live stacking with classic equipment?

A USB camera instead of an eyepiece in the focuser + live-stacking software (e.g. SharpCap): the image accumulates on screen in real time. Works, for example, with refractors + ASI585MC; on refractors it needs some post-processing or a narrowband/yellow filter against the residual chromatic error. The modern counterpart as a complete device: Seestar, Celestron Origin, Unistellar Odyssey – or modular: ASIAIR/ StellaVita + camera on a GoTo mount.

10. Collimation & Care

Q: How do I collimate a Newtonian?

Karl’s proven workflow: “I use the Cheshire for the geometry and then a good laser for fine collimation. The primary mirror shouldn’t be clamped too tightly.” A laser collimator (e.g. Baader Laser Colli Mark III – “noticeably better”) is enough; re-collimation after transport is normal, “no real problem”. f/4 systems (Quattro) tend to need collimation quite often.

Q: How do I collimate an SCT/Maksutov?

Only on a star: “An SC must always be collimated on a real star. The mechanical geometry is never accurate enough for a laser to work.” Lasers and centre marks are useless. Diagnostics: defocused star image from the centre of the field; distorted stars point to reflections or a tilted corrector plate.

Q: How do I clean optics?

First remove loose dust with clean compressed air – “the rest is no problem”. Basically never unscrew the lens cell; if you do: mark the position first. Stains on the mirror back are irrelevant – the mirror surface is what counts. Mirrors last “several decades”. For stubborn cases: recommend an optical cleaning SERVICE rather than a DIY attempt.

Q: What does the shop check before shipping?

Standard status “In stock + checked”: every telescope and mount is inspected and adjusted before shipping (2–4 days depending on workload). Example protocol: “The telescope is now checked and collimated. The focuser is adjusted. The mount has also been checked and the bearings set. Please leave them as they are. The tripod thread has been re-cut.” Dew shields get extra blackening, secondary spiders get blackened, and dubious stock is sorted out instead of shipped.

Q: Bearing play on the mount – what’s normal?

Minimal DEC play is normal; bearings should “never be set completely play-free” – otherwise motors and bearings are overstressed. Worm play is temperature-dependent (winter/summer average). For guiding problems the workshop checks run and noise (sometimes via a lab PSU watching current draw) – “the imaging problems are usually somewhere else than in the EQ6.”

11. Shop Service: Delivery, Warranty & Advice

Q: Delivery times and shipping?

• In stock: normally 3–5 days; “In stock + checked” means 2–4 days of workshop checks before shipping. Express next working day possible when marked “urgent”.
• Backordered items/Supply bottlenecks are communicated honestly (importer’s container rhythm, sea freight 12–15 weeks in tight phases). With unclear delivery times Karl offers a precautionary refund or alternatives.
• Shipping: DHL (standard), GLS, express; free shipping from €500 (DE). Large mounts (EQ8 class) go by freight forwarder on a pallet. 12” Dobsonians are not shipped (thinner tubes) – pickup/domestic only.
• Partial delivery on request, combined orders, reservation service – just ask.

Q: Payment and right of withdrawal?

• PayPal (Plus/Express) or EU bank transfer (prepayment – “goods are only shipped once the amount has arrived in our account”; a discount for bank transfer is common).
• 14 days right of withdrawal without giving reasons, goods original-packed and as new. Classic convenience: “You can also refuse acceptance.” Refunds are made immediately after receipt.
• Institutions (schools, observatories, clubs) order on invoice; astronomy clubs get 10–15 % discount.

Q: Warranty and repair process?

• “All items come with 2 years warranty. Since we check every telescope, we only ship good units.”
• Process for defects: email with fault description (+ photos/video for remote diagnosis) → send the device with an “important” note on the package → Karl reproduces the fault himself → forwarding to the importer (Celestron → Baader, SkyWatcher → Optical Vision) or repair in-house → often an immediate replacement from stock.
• Adjustment/repair service depending on effort about €50–80 plus return shipping; star test + Ronchi as quality proof for a surcharge (for refractors; no quality certificate for Newtonians/RCs).
• Third-party devices with running warranty: better contact the original dealer first – otherwise the warranty may lapse.

Q: Can I test on site and get an introduction?

Yes: “Feel free to come to our showroom. Then I can show you the items.” Extensive testing before purchase is explicitly welcome (“as long as you need”). A/B comparison instruments are provided on request, on-site introductions and collimation demonstrations are possible, pickup after completion notice. Formal courses are not offered – instead the personal introduction on your own instrument.

Q: How do I reach advice the fastest?

For complex questions the phone is the fastest route (“Could we discuss this on the phone, since we currently receive too many emails?”): +49 (0)89 68050200 – often reachable until 10/11 p.m. and from about 2 p.m. on Sundays. Channels: phone, SMS, WhatsApp, Signal, Threema. Remote diagnosis via photo/video (e.g. “a photo through the focuser via WhatsApp”) is explicitly welcome.

Q: Are there discounts?

Discount rituals from practice: 10 % on many items (with bank transfer often “the maximum possible discount”), club discount 10–15 %, school/university discount ~15 %, free adapter sourcing with orders, free mains supply near a socket, free EAF mounting, free moon filter with beginner telescopes. For already discounted items the answer is consistent: “I’m afraid I can’t give any further discount.” And honesty belongs to it: “We can’t match the China prices. They’re all below our cost.” – The differentiator is the service: checking, collimation, introduction, in-house repair.

As of: October 2026 · Teleskop-Spezialisten Karl Kloß, Grubmühl 20, D-82131 Gauting (near Munich), Germany · Tel. +49 (0)89 68050200 · info@teleskop-spezialisten.de

Clear skies!